History of Tea in India – Origins, Cultivation, and Cultural Infusion

Tea Plantation India

Introduction of Tea to Indians

Indians were introduced to tea in the early 17th century, and its cultivation was largely propagated in the 19th century by the British East India Company. Tea has a rich history in India, dating back centuries and encompassing a fascinating journey of cultivation, trade, and diverse methods of preparation.

John Ovington, an English Priest, who was in Surat, Gujarat between 1689 and 1692, in his book A Voyage to Suratt in the Year 1689 (available on Amazon) published in 1696, gave a detailed account of his observations there. In this he says that Tea is a common drink with all the Inhabitants of India as well as Europeans as Natives”. he further says that “Tea, with some hot Spice intermixt and boiled in Water, has the Repute of prevailing against Headach, Gravel, and Griping in the Guts, and ’tis generally drunk in India, either with Sugar-Candy, or, by the more curious, with small Conserv’d Lemons.”

From the above it is apparent that the Indians were introduced to tea at about the same time as the British or even earlier. It could have been through the Dutch traders or even the Chinese themselves.

Establishment of Tea Cultivation in India:

It was the British who played a pivotal role in popularising tea cultivation in India. The British, driven by their desire to break China’s monopoly on the tea export, began experimenting with cultivating tea in their Indian colonies.

The journey of tea through India can be divided into several phases:

  1. Early cultivation (1823-1850): This period saw the discovery of tea plants in Assam and the establishment of the first experimental tea plantations.
  2. Expansion (1850-1900): During this time, tea cultivation expanded to other regions, including Darjeeling and Nilgiri. The Indian Tea Association was established in 1881 to promote the interests of tea planters.
  3. Growth and development (1900-1947): The early 20th century saw the growth of the tea industry in India, with the establishment of research institutes and the introduction of modern cultivation techniques. The Tea Board of India was established in 1942 to regulate and promote the tea industry.
  4. Post-independence (1947-present): After India gained independence in 1947, the tea industry continued to grow, and India became one of the largest tea producers in the world. The government took steps to support small tea growers and promote the domestic consumption of tea.

In 1823, a Scot named Robert Bruce discovered indigenous tea plants in the forests of upper Assam, a northeastern region of India. He sent samples of the plant to the botanical gardens in Calcutta (now Kolkata) for further examination. However, after his death in 1824, it was his brother, Charles Alexander Bruce, who successfully propagated tea from these wild plants. This marked the beginning of tea cultivation in India.

Another Scot named Robert Fortune, introduced Chinese tea plants to the Darjeeling area of India in 1848. He used many different ways to steal these plants from Chinese growers, these being the property of the King. He also brought a group of trained Chinese tea workers to help propagate these plants. Almost all of these plants perished.

It was only after the ending of British East India Company’s monopoly with Chinese tea ended in 1833, the British took an active interest in the cultivation of tea. They started the first experimental tea plantation in the early 1830. They established tea gardens in the Assam region, primarily around the Brahmaputra River, which provided favourable growing conditions. The indigenous tea variety, Camellia sinensis var. assamica, thrived in the rich, loamy soil and the humid climate of Assam.

The tea plants in Assam were different from the Chinese tea plants, and it took some time to develop the right cultivation techniques. By the 1850s, the tea industry in Assam had expanded significantly, and the first Indian tea was exported to Britain. The success of tea cultivation in Assam led to the exploration of other regions in India for tea plantation, such as Darjeeling and Nilgiri.

Expansion of Tea Plantations in India:

Following the success of tea cultivation in Assam, the British East India Company expanded tea plantations to other regions of India. Darjeeling, in the foothills of the Himalayas, became a prominent tea-growing region in the mid-19th century. The high-altitude plantations and the unique terroir of Darjeeling contributed to the production of distinct, aromatic teas. Today, Darjeeling tea is renowned worldwide for its delicate flavour and muscatel notes.

In the late 19th century, tea cultivation also spread to the Nilgiri Hills in South India, where the mild climate and fertile slopes provided an ideal environment for tea production. Nilgiri tea is known for its fragrant and brisk character, and it remains an essential part of India’s tea industry.

Development of Tea Industry in India:

As tea cultivation expanded, India witnessed significant developments in the tea industry. The British built extensive infrastructure, including railway networks and factories, to transport and process tea leaves. With the establishment of auction centers in Calcutta, Kolkata, and Guwahati, tea became a commodity for trade and export.

Today India is the second largest producer of tea and largest consumer. It consumes 80% of its production. As per the Indian Tea Association, India produced 1365.23 M kg of tea in 2022.

Tea became an integral part of Indian culture and daily life. It transcended class and became a popular beverage across the country. India’s diverse population developed various methods of tea preparation, each with its unique characteristics and flavours.

Various Methods of Tea Preparation in India:

  1. Chai (Masala Chai):
    Chai holds a special place in Indian culture. It is prepared by boiling a mixture of tea leaves, milk, water, sugar, and spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves. This aromatic and flavorful beverage is typically served hot and is consumed throughout the day.
  2. Tulsi Tea:
    This tea is made by brewing black tea with tulsi (holy basil) leaves, which are known for their medicinal properties. It is often consumed for its health benefits and soothing effects.
  3. Kashmiri Kahwa:
    This is a traditional tea from the Kashmir region, made by brewing green tea with saffron, cinnamon, cardamom, and crushed almonds. It is usually sweetened with honey and served with a garnish of chopped almonds and pistachios.
  4. Assam Tea:
    In Assam, tea is often prepared in a more robust style. It involves brewing strong black tea leaves and adding milk and sugar. The resulting tea is bold, malty, and full-bodied, well-suited for mornings and as a breakfast beverage.
  5. Darjeeling Tea:
    Darjeeling tea is treasured for its delicate flavours. It is traditionally prepared by steeping whole tea leaves in hot water and served without milk or with a small amount of milk. This allows the nuances of the tea’s floral, fruity, and muscatel notes to shine.
  6. Nilgiri Tea:
    Nilgiri tea is versatile and can be prepared as both black and green tea. It is known for its bright and brisk flavor. Nilgiri black tea is typically brewed and served with or without milk, while Nilgiri green tea is prepared by steeping the leaves in hot water, offering a more delicate and refreshing taste.

These are just a few examples of tea preparations in India, and it’s important to note that regional variations and personal preferences contribute to the diverse methods of tea preparation found across the country.

In conclusion, tea found its way to India through traders, progressed under the British colonial influence and eventually became an integral part of Indian culture and society. The journey of tea in India began with the discovery of wild tea plants in Assam, leading to the establishment of tea gardens and plantations in Assam, Darjeeling, and the Nilgiri Hills. Over time, India’s tea industry flourished, and various methods of tea preparation emerged, reflecting the nation’s rich cultural diversity.

References:

  1. A Voyage to Suratt in the Year 1689 by John Ovington
  2. India Tea Association website

Leave a Reply